Professional Glossary: Discovering the meanings of the hair's world

Find out about the ingredients & benefits of the products and develop your beauty knowledge!

Searching fot the ideal products for your hair care, you face many & different terminologies. So, we create a professional glossary through which you could be properly informed.

Specifically, this information package will assist you to enhance your knowledge as to ingredients, technical characteristics and performance benefits. In this way you will be in the position to understand which product responds to your needs & further you will make the right choices, that will offer you the desired results. 

Searching fot the ideal products for your hair care, you face many & different terminologies. So, we create a professional glossary through which you could be properly informed.

A

Acai berry

Plant stem cell extract

It has an antioxidant effect to protect the hair.

Alkane

100% plant-based ingredient. Unlike all conventional sources, the material is not derived from petroleum oils.Silicone substitute, with intensive care performance.

Allantoin

It is effective against irritations and has anti-inflammatory properties.

Aloe Vera

This cactus plant contains enzymes, amino acids and polysaccharides, among others. These provide multiple benefits, such as moisturizing hair and skin as well as enhancing wound healing.

Almond oil

It is known for its extremely moisturizing and emollient properties.

Amino acids

Nourish and protect.

Apricot shell

Prunus Armeniaca Seed Powder is the ground powder from the seeds of the apricot tree.

Apricot seed powder is a gentle, natural exfoliant that helps remove dead skin cells.

Argan oil

It is produced from the fruits of the argan tree (Argania spinosa), which is native to Morocco. It is known for its moisturizing, nourishing and healing properties for skin and hair. It is widely used in skin care and cosmetology as a natural moisturizing and nourishing product.

It contains beneficial fatty acids, antioxidants and vitamins, which can help fight dryness, wrinkles and skin damage.

Avocado oil

Gives smoothness and protection from dryness.

B

Bamboo extract

Extract from the bamboo plant, which creates a light protective film.

Betaine

It has soothing properties.

Beeswax

Beeswax is obtained from the honeycombs of bees. It is used in cosmetic products as a waxy ingredient, for texture and hold. Beeswax increases the protective action of sunscreens, as well as the vitality, elasticity and shine of the hair.

Benzophenone-5

It is used for its ability to absorb UV rays. It protects the integrity of the ingredients in cosmetics from being damaged by UV rays. Covers the UVB spectrum and short UVA (UVA-2).

Helps protect against UV rays.

Biotin

Biotin belongs to the B complex of vitamins and is also known as vitamin H. Adding biotin to hair and scalp care products can have a positive impact on hair health. Biotin enhances keratinization.

C

Cationic polymers

Polymers that carry a positive charge and create a protective shield around the hair.

Caffeine

Central nervous system stimulant found in tonic drinks such as tea and coffee. Caffeine is thought to prolong the hair growth cycle and is therefore used in hair toning products to combat hair loss.

Corneal sheath

The cornea is made up of scales. These are formed during the hair growth process, when new cells turn into squamous cells in the hair follicle.

They overlap at 4/5 of their length and form rings of cell layers, in groups of 6 – 10 around the hair shaft.

The larger the diameter of the hair, the more layers of scales there are. Hair scales act as a protective membrane, protecting the inner fibrous cells of the hair cortex from water and dirt.

The stratum corneum acts as a protective membrane, protecting the inside of the hair.

Chia seeds

Chia Seed Powder is made by precision grinding and sieving chia seeds.

Chia seeds are rich in omega 3, protein and vitamins.

The natural hardness of the seed makes them really effective at exfoliating the skin and removing dead cells for more youthful looking skin.

Creatinine

Natural amino acid first patented by System Professional for use in hair products. It has a high affinity with the hair, renews the inside of the hair, strengthens and reconstructs it.

Chelate (EDDS, histidine or EDTA)

Protects keratin from damage caused by low copper levels.

D

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Softening agent that quickly covers the surface of the hair. Known as an alternative to silicone.

Dicaprylyl Ether

Ether of Coconut oil (or other vegetable oil) derived from caprylic acid. An alternative to silicones, it does not leave greasy residues on the skin and hair.

Dry hair

The balance of hair moisture levels is the basis for healthy, energetic hair, and it also affects other hair characteristics, such as texture and elasticity.

However, humidity levels show significant fluctuations caused by various factors. Hair is hygroscopic, i.e. it has the ability to absorb and lose water molecules through atmospheric humidity. The percentage of water within the hair can vary from about 10% (in very dry climates, dry central heating) to 30% (in tropical climates, in foggy conditions or in a sauna). The water contained in the hair evaporates not only from the outside, but also partly from the inside, when drying the hair, when exposed to the sun or in conditions of low atmospheric humidity, resulting in a drop in the moisture levels of the hair. Hair loses its elasticity and becomes dry and wild.

Dandruff

Healthy skin is constantly renewing itself. Within 30 days, new cells in the basal layer of the epidermis move to the surface to form the stratum corneum. When scales are present on the epidermis of the scalp, cell renewal and exfoliation are disrupted. It is scientifically proven that the skin suffering from dandruff renews itself at a faster rate than normal. Renewed cells reach the surface of the skin too quickly and accumulate forming clumps of cells that take the form of visible flakes.

E

Edds

(Trisodium ethylendiamine disuccinate.) Protects keratin from damage caused by reduced copper levels.

Ethanol

It protects the integrity and performance of the formulation while acting as a solvent. It does not dry out the hair like conventional alcohols.

F

Fibrous stem (bark)

Most of the hair (about 80%) consists of fibers. In a single cross section of the hair we can see 100 – 200 elongated keratinized cells of the cortex that are arranged parallel to the hair shaft. A thin layer between the cells of the cell membrane complex ensures that the cells are connected. Fibrous cells are made up of smaller, elongated fibrous structures – the macrofibrils. Macrofibers are made up of even finer microfibers that are in the form of individual keratin proteins in a spiral shape (alpha-helical structure). These give the hair resistance to breakage and elasticity.

Fructose

A type of water-soluble sugar. It is used as a natural fixing agent in hair care products, it holds moisture and gives a feeling of softness to the hair.

G

Geraniol

Enhances the pleasant smell of the formula with floral and citrus notes.

Glycerin

Trivalent alcohol obtained by saponification of natural oils and fats. It is a colorless, highly hygroscopic liquid with a sweet taste. It has moisture balancing properties. It provides the hair with long-lasting hydration and protects it from dryness.

Glucose

A type of water-soluble sugar. It is used as a natural fixing agent in hair care products, it holds moisture and gives a feeling of softness to the hair.

H

Hair loss

Daily loss of 100 to 120 hairs is completely normal. This number may decrease or increase significantly from time to time. For example, at certain times of the year, increased hair loss is observed. If daily hair loss remains well above normal levels for extended periods of time, then we are talking about pathological hair loss (alopecia).

Hibiscus extract

It is produced from the flowers of the Hibiscus sabdariffa plant, also known as hibiscus. It is known for its beneficial properties for skin and hair. Hibiscus extract contains natural antioxidants, vitamins and acids, which can help protect the skin from free radical action and promote healthy-looking skin.

It is also said to have moisturizing properties and can help treat dry skin and hair loss.

Histidine

Natural amino acid and building block of hair keratin. It works in two different ways that contribute to enhanced keratin protection.

It directly protects the hair by replenishing keratin levels.

It works indirectly by specifically targeting copper that comes from exogenous factors and accumulates in the hair, most of which is transferred to the outer sheath of the hair through water. Copper accelerates the formation of free radicals either during dyeing or during exposure to UV radiation and free radicals cause destruction of keratin and hair lipids.

It repairs and replenishes the hair's natural protein structure and protects against damage caused by free radicals.

Hydrolyzed Keratin

It rebuilds the inside of the hair.

Hydrated Silica

Hydrogenated Silica comes naturally from quartz, is abundant and makes up 12% of the Earth's surface. It is found in nature, as opal (mined for centuries as a gemstone) and in the cell walls of diatoms (Algae).

Supports the creation of volume and hold.

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

An ingredient of vegetable origin, produced by the enzymatic hydrolysis of soy flour.

The formula with Hydrolyzed Soya Protein helps to strengthen the structure of the hair, making it softer.

I

Isopropyl Alcohol

Isomer of propanol which is the first commercial synthetic alcohol. It is used as an antiseptic in a wide range of products from hand creams and make-up to aftershave.

Adjusts the texture of the products.

Isopropyl Myristate

Partially natural softening and spreading agent, produced from Isopropyl alcohol (propane derivative) and Myristic acid (natural fatty acid). Popular ingredient in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry.

Creates a smooth hair surface and supports shine, softness and easy combing.

J

Jojoba oil

Jojoba oil has been used in many cultures to rebuild hair, especially for dry and brittle end

K

Kaolin

Natural mineral. Discovered in China, it was used as a key ingredient in the production of porcelain. Today, it is used in hair products because of its styling properties and ability to absorb oil and dirt.

Creates roughness, strong hold, while helping to separate and style hair.

L

Lauric acid

Natural fatty acid. Combined with biotin and caffeine, it protects the hair root.

Limonene

Enhances the pleasant smell of the formula with citrus notes.

Linseed Oil

Rich in omega-3 fatty acids that help boost moisture content and strengthen hair. It is a source of vitamins E, B1, B2, B6 and biotin, known for their beneficial properties on the hair in enhancing hair elasticity.

Linseed farmers are supported by providing them with growing techniques, specialist seeds and ways to reduce costs and labour.

M

Monooleic Glycerol

Fatty acid (lipid) and obtained from natural oils and fats. Glycerol monooleate enhances the effectiveness of oleic acid and additionally contributes to the formation of a hydrophobic film around the hair.

Medullary substance (marrow)

In fine hairs, only cells from the keratin sheath and fibrous body are found. Coarse hairs may also include another type of cells, those of the marrow. In the medullary substance (or pith) there is a small entrapment of air within the hair. The marrow does not perform any function in human hair. In contrast, in animal hair it contributes to the insulation provided by their fur and is much larger in size. The pith scatters the light and makes the white hairs look duller.

Mango Extract

Vegetable origin ingredient. Mango is known for its nourishing and rejuvenating properties.

Releases a caring fragrance. Leaves hair softer.

Murumuru Butter

An excellent conditioner known for its moisturizing properties. It naturally protects against damage caused by the sun, heat and other harmful factors.

It is a butter from the Amazon - exotic, functional ingredient, natural and 100% pure. Handpicked by local farmers. The Beraca organization supports these local farmers by offering an important source of income and promoting empowerment.

O

Olive leaf extract

Anti-inflammatory substance that provides additional benefits in maintaining color and preventing fading.

Oleic acid

It is a fatty acid found in various vegetable fats and oils. Oleic acid restores the balance of lipids, which are the building block that holds keratin.

Organic muru muru butter

It comes from the fruits of the murumuru plant (Astrocaryum murumuru), which is native to the Amazon regions of Brazil. Muru muru butter is rich in fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid and palmitic acid, which help maintain skin hydration and elasticity.

It also contains vitamins and antioxidants that can help protect the skin from premature aging and oxidation.

Optimized Quaternium Compounds

They fill the gaps in the structure and smooth the surface of the hair

P

Pyrocidine olamine

Natural active ingredient from the Hinoki cedar that grows in Taiwan. It has germicidal properties and fights dandruff.

Panthenol

A derivative of vitamin B-5. It is used in shampoos and conditioners as a humectant, to keep the hair hydrated and soft.

It improves the hydration level of the hair and helps to protect its structure.

PVP-VA polymers

They are applied to the hair to strengthen the outer structure of the hair and for lasting volume.

Polymers with emollient action

Synthetic conditioning agents that give the hair a feeling of softness and make it easier to comb.

Provitamin B5 (Panthenol)

Provitamin of the B complex which is converted after penetrating the skin. It has a high affinity with keratin, protecting against dryness over time.

Psoriasis

It is an autoimmune disease that causes inflammation and creates visible lesions in certain areas of the skin with relatively broad, silvery-white, persistent scales. Psoriasis cannot be treated with anti-dandruff treatments. It is generally considered to be a hereditary disease and can be manifested due to environmental factors.

Psoriasis is caused when the immune system mistakes a healthy skin cell as harmful and sends wrong signals that cause an overproduction of new skin cells.

In this case, the patient should consult a dermatologist. It is also recommended to use a treatment for sensitive scalp in order to strengthen the stratum corneum and reduce the sensitivity of the scalp.

S

Shea Butter

Superfood for the skin and hair derived from the seeds of the fruit of the Shea (or Karite) tree. Naturally rich in vitamins A, E and F. It has low sun protection (SPF ~6) and provides hair and skin with essential fatty acids and nutrients necessary for collagen production.

Sunflower Wax

Wax derived from sunflower seeds. Improves the density and structure of emulsions.

It supports the creation of cohesive yet malleable product textures.

Sun filter

It provides additional color protection against UV radiation, just like octocrylene.

T

The structure of the hair

Hair is made up of keratinous fibers. Keratins are proteins that form long-chain molecules (macromolecules) made up of more than 20 different kinds of amino acids. The different types of protein are differentiated mainly by their chain length and the sequence of amino acids they contain.

About half of hair proteins have a clustered, irregular structure. The rest of the proteins have amino acid sequences that give the molecule a coiled shape, known as an alpha-helix. The protein structure is linked to a structural element consisting mainly of lipids which give elasticity to the hair fiber.

Triethyl Citrate

Citric acid ester, used as a fragrance stabilizer, as a spreading agent for hairsprays and as an active ingredient in deodorants.

Creates a smooth hair surface and supports shine, softness and easy combing.

U

UV filter

Protects against damage caused by UV radiation.

V

Visavolol

Known for its anti-inflammatory properties, it has a calming effect and helps soothe the feeling of discomfort on sensitive skin and scalp. Because of these properties, it is often included as a key ingredient in after-sun care and products created specifically for sensitive skin.

Vitamin A

Provides protection against dehydration.

Vitamin B5

It strengthens and improves the structure of the hair and increases its strength.

Vitamin E (tocopherol)

A fat-soluble vitamin usually found in vegetable oils. Particularly effective antioxidant and "cleaner" of free radicals.

Vitamin F (linoleic acid)

It is a polyunsaturated essential acid. It has a tendency to oxidize and become resinous. Used in products for dry skin.

Vitamin B3 (Niacin Amide)

It is water-soluble and belongs to the vitamins of the B complex. It balances the moisture levels between the skin cells and has an anti-inflammatory effect. It can contribute to long-term scalp health and strengthen the foundation for strong, healthy hair.

W

Witch hazel extract

It reduces inflammation and has an astringent effect.

White willow bark extract

White willow extract (Salix alba) which soothes the scalp and has an anti-inflammatory effect. It contains natural ingredients, including salicylic acid and flavonoids such as tannins, and helps to rejuvenate the skin.

Walnut shell

Walnut shell powder is made from French walnut shells. Their natural hardness makes them really effective at exfoliating the skin and removing dead cells for more youthful looking skin.

Z

Zinc carbonate

Enhances the effectiveness of zinc pyrithione to neutralize the fungus

Malassezia globosa.

Material retrieved from: https://www.systemprofessional.com/el-GR/science-glossary